Tag Archive: Fear

Adrenaline Popping

The surf was really good today. It was a bit scary here and there – quite big – but alright. I’ve been surfing for about eight years and it’s very much a passion.… Continue reading

F**k the sea

‘I woke up at 9:11 this morning and went to turn the computer on. Then I heard Alice yelling “where are you?!”  I rushed in and she was sitting up in bed with… Continue reading

Gwithian surf

“How was the surf today? It looks massive from here.” “I’ve never been so scared in my life. I got out there, and there was a great wall of sea behind me. I… Continue reading

Fear nothing

I came out of prison in January. I did nine months in the Czech Republic for a political cultural protest. They were going to close the opera house in the town where I… Continue reading